Walking around the phoenix as if stepping into a long roll of ink slowly unfolding. The story of the border city written by Shen Congwen flows between the streets and alleys, and the carved window lattice of Xiong Xiling's former residence hides the glory of the past. Sitting on the black canopy boat of the Tuojiang River, watching the river is long, the hanging tower reflects it, and time has slowed down at this moment.

I. Preliminary preparation
(1) Certificates
With an ID card, students should remember to bring their student ID cards and enjoy discounts on tickets to some scenic spots; elderly people can also enjoy corresponding discounts with their old-age certificates.
(II) Clothing
The ancient city of Phoenix has a subtropical monsoon humid climate with four distinct seasons. In spring (March-March), the temperature gradually warms up, but the temperature difference between morning and evening is large. It is recommended to bring long-sleeved coats, thin sweaters, etc.; in summer (June-August), it is hot and rainy, mainly to wear light and breathable clothes. At the same time, prepare umbrellas, sunscreen, sunscreen, sunglasses, sun hats and other sunscreen products; in autumn (September-November), the weather is cool, and you can wear long-sleeved shirts and jackets; winter (December- February) is relatively cold, and you need to bring down jackets, thick cotton-padded clothes, thermal pants, scarves, gloves and other warm clothes.
(3) Other items
Comfortable flat shoes or sneakers are indispensable. The ancient city is mostly slate roads, which is easy to walk. Prepare a backpack to facilitate the carrying of cameras, kettles, paper towels, power bank and other portable items. In addition, you can prepare some common drugs according to your personal needs, such as cold medicine, gastrointestinal medicine, motion sickness medicine, Band-Aids, etc.
II. Traffic Guide
(I) External traffic
1. Aircraft:
•Tongren Phoenix Airport: About 27 kilometers away from the ancient city of Phoenix, it is the nearest airport to the ancient city. After leaving the airport, you can choose the following ways to go to the ancient city:
Airport bus: There is a direct bus to Phoenix Ancient City, which is about 40 minutes' drive and the fare is about 25 yuan. The operation time is generally connected with the flight time, which is more convenient.
Taxi / online car-hailing: The cost is about 100-150 yuan, which is suitable for multiple people. It can be delivered directly to designated locations in the ancient city, which is more convenient.
2. Train / high-speed rail:
Huaihua South Station: It is a high-speed railway station close to Phoenix Ancient City. After leaving the station, you can take a special bus to the ancient city of Phoenix at the bus terminal, which is about 1.5 hours' drive, and the fare ranges from 40-50 yuan. There are many buses, and the operating hours are about 08:00-18:00.
Jishou Station: There are ordinary train stops. After leaving Jishou Railway Station, you can go to Jishou Bus Terminal next to the railway station and take the shuttle bus to Phoenix Ancient City. The fare is about 1 hour, and the fare is about 20 yuan. Shuttle buses depart frequently, and there are trains from morning to night.
(II) Internal traffic
1. Inside the ancient city: Motor vehicles are prohibited in the core area of the ancient city of Phoenix, mainly relying on foot tours. Walking on the bluestone street, you can better feel the charm of the ancient city. If you bring large pieces of luggage, you can contact **** to arrange a manual tricycle to help with the transportation. The cost is generally 10-20 yuan.
2. Around the ancient city:
Bus: There are some bus lines around the ancient city of Phoenix connecting the surrounding attractions, but the number of trains may not be too dense. The route information can be viewed at the bus stop, and the fare is generally 1-2 yuan.
Taxi / online car-hailing: When traveling around the ancient city, taxi or online car-hailing is a more convenient choice. The starting price is generally 6-8 yuan, which will be priced according to the mileage.
III. Recommendation of scenic spots
(1) Phoenix Ancient City
1. Shen Congwen's former residence: 40 yuan. This is a courtyard with strong architectural characteristics of the Ming and Qing Dynasties in western Hunan, where Mr. Shen Congwen was born and spent his childhood. Shen Congwen's manuscripts, photos and other precious cultural relics are displayed in his former residence. Through these, you can deeply understand his life and creative process, and feel the customs of western Hunan depicted in works such as Border City.
2. Xiong Xiling's former residence: Located in the alley of Wenxing Street in the north of the ancient city, it is free to visit. The former residence is a typical architectural model of the ancient Miao courtyard. The carved drawings of doors and windows are exquisite and full of ethnic customs. Here we can learn about Mr. Xiong Xiling's important contributions in politics, education, charity and other fields from the end of the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China.
3. Yangjia Ancestral Hall: Ticket 10 yuan. It was built in the 16th year of Qing Daoguang and was donated by Yang Fang, a Phoenix and Miao figure who was then the Admiral of Guizhou. The architectural style of the ancestral hall is unique. It adopts a combination of beam-lifting and bucket-piercing structure, with hard mountaintops and flying eaves and corners. The hall is dedicated to the ancestral plaque of the Yang family, and also displays the history, culture and related cultural relics of the Yang family.
4. Dongmen Tower: Free visit. As one of the four gates of Phoenix Ancient City, formerly known as Shengheng Gate, the city building is made of local red sand strips and stone, with exquisite workmanship. Climbing the tower can overlook the green tiles and white walls in the ancient city, and you can have a panoramic view of the Tuojiang River in the distance, which is a good place for photography.
5. Beimen Tower and Tuojiang Jumping Rock: Free visit. The real name of the North Gate Tower is Bihui Gate, which was built in the Ming Dynasty. There are two layers of gunholes on the outside of the city building, which can control the defense scope outside the gate. The Tuojiang Jumping Rock next to the Beimen Tower is one of the landmark attractions of the ancient city. It consists of two rows of stone piers across the Tuojiang River. Walking on the rock jumping, there is a clear river at your feet. Next to the ancient city walls and hanging towers by the river, you can enjoy the unique charm of the ancient city and are also an excellent attraction to shoot the beautiful scenery of the Tuojiang River.
6. Hongqiao Fengyu Building: Free visit. This pavilion, built in the early years of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty, spanning the Tuo River and connects the east and west sides of the ancient city. The bridge is divided into two floors, one is shops and grocery stores, which are very lively; the second floor is a folk culture building, which collects many calligraphy and paintings about Hongqiao Fengyu Building. Standing on the rainbow bridge, whether it is enjoying the panoramic view of the ancient city during the day or watching the brightly lit night view at night, it is intoxicating.
7. Longevity Palace: Ticket 30 yuan. It was built by Jiangxi merchants in Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty for 20 years to commemorate Xu Zhenjun, the local protection god of Jiangxi. The Longevity Palace is grand in scale, and the architectural style combines Hui architecture with the characteristics of western Hunan. The eaves and arches are magnificent. There are also some precious cultural relics and works of art on display in the palace, as well as exhibitions to introduce the history and culture of the ancient city of Phoenix.
8. Wanming Tower: Free visit. Located on the north bank of Shawan, Tuojiang, it shines with Xiechang Pavilion and Hongqiao. The tower is seven steps in six directions, 22.98 meters high, and copper wind chimes are hung at six warped angles on each floor. The tower is made of blue brick and mixed mortar, as well as reinforced concrete. The surrounding environment of Wanming Pagoda is beautiful. It is a popular place for tourists to rest, enjoy the scenery of the Tuojiang River and take photos.
(2) Surrounding scenic spots
1. Qiliang Cave: Ticket 60 yuan, located in Qiliangqiao Township, Phoenix County, about 6 kilometers away from the ancient city. Qiliang Cave is a large karst cave. There are many attractions such as "Ancient Battlefield", "Gallery", "Paradise", "Dragon Palace" and "Yin and Yang River". The stalactites in the cave are colorful in the light. You can also take a boat to visit the mysterious underground river and feel the magic of nature.
2. Nanhuashan National Forest Park: Tickets are free, located in the south of the ancient city of Phoenix, which is dependent on the ancient city. The park is densely forested, vegetation is rich, and the air is fresh. It is a good place for leisure hiking and climbing. Climbing to the top of the mountain can overlook the panoramic view of the whole ancient city of Phoenix. In the morning, you can also enjoy the beautiful scenery of the ancient city, just like a fairyland.
3. Phoenix China Giant Panda Garden: Ticket 80 yuan, located in Daping Village, Liaojiaqiao Town, Phoenix County. This is the first eco-park with the theme of giant pandas in Hunan Province. There are lovely giant pandas such as "Hehua" and "Heye". Tourists can watch the naive pandas eating bamboo, playing, sleeping and other daily activities at close range, and feel the charm of national treasures, which is very suitable for parent-child play.
IV. Food Recommendation
1. Blood cake duck: a unique signature dish in Phoenix Ancient City and even western Hunan. Blood cake is made of duck blood and glutinous rice, and then stir-fried with duck meat. The duck meat is fresh and tender, the blood cake is fragrant and soft, and the taste is fragrant. It combines the mellowness of duck blood and the deliciousness of duck meat. It is a must-tasting delicacy when you come to Phoenix. Recommended restaurant: Tujia Hunan cuisine at Junzi Hotel.
2. Sour soup fish: a favorite dish of the Miao people, and it is also one of the specialties of Phoenix. With catfish as the main ingredients, with Miaojia pickled cabbage, tender tofu and other seasonings, the fish soup is sour, spicy and refreshing, and the fish is fresh and tender, which is very appetizing. After tasting it, the hot and sour soup instantly opens the taste buds, which greatly increases people's appetite. Recommended restaurant: the food tribe on the second floor of Linjiang Restaurant.
3. Western Hunan bacon: It is smoked from firewood. Although the appearance is not amazing, it tastes rich and mellow, delicious and delicious. It can be sliced and stir-fried separately, and can also be cooked with other ingredients, such as green peppers, garlic sprouts, etc. The aroma of bacon blends with side dishes, and the flavor is unique. Recommended restaurant: bowl dishes in Zhaizi (Phoenix Hongqiao Restaurant).
4. Rice noodles: an indispensable staple food for Phoenix people, and it is also a snack that tourists can't miss. Rice flour is divided into round flour and flat flour, and the taste is different. It can be matched with different whistles such as shredded pork, spareribs and beef, as well as seasonings such as green onion, ginger, garlic and chili. The taste is rich and diverse and can meet the preferences of different people. Rice noodle shops can be seen everywhere in the streets and alleys of the ancient city.
5. Miaojia sour radish: made of traditional Tujia production technology and unique oil and spicy seasoning. The color is bright, the texture is crispy and tender, sour, spicy and sweet. This delicacy can be eaten in almost every restaurant. It is often used as an appetizer. If you bite it in one bite, the sour and spicy taste disperses in an instant, stimulating the taste buds and making people's appetite open.
6. Tung leaf cake: Glutinous rice cake is made of glutinous rice, and then wrapped in Paulownia leaves and baked. The outer skin is fragrant and soft, and the inner filling is available with sweet taste (such as bean paste filling) and salty mouth (such as pickled cabbage and tofu diced, salted bacon, etc.), emitting a unique fragrance of tung leaves, soft and glutinous taste, with a unique flavor.
7. Hot and sour Jueba: Phoenix specialty snack, made of sour chili and Jueba. Moderately sour and spicy, soft, glutinous and delicious, the unique sour taste of sour pepper and the soft and glutinous taste of Jue cake are integrated with each other to form a unique taste experience, which is unforgettable.
8. Social meal: Essential food for the Hmong during the holiday, and now tourists can also taste it at any time. It is made from a mixture and steaming of glutinous rice, wild artemisia, bacon, peanuts, Tuojiang shrimp and other ingredients. It has a rich taste and balanced nutrition. It has not only the soft glutinous glutinous rice, but also the fragrance of wild artemisia annua, as well as the mellow taste of bacon and other ingredients.
9. Leicha: It is not tea in the traditional sense, but a drink made from tea, sesame, peanuts, rice, ginger and other ingredients. It tastes sweet and delicious, with the effects of clearing away heat and detoxifying, eliminating fatigue, etc. In addition to visiting the ancient city, tasting a cup of tea can not only quench thirst and relieve summer heat, but also feel the unique local food culture.
V. Accommodation proposal
(I) Inside the ancient city
1. Linjiang Inn:
Advantages: Excellent geographical location. You can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Tuojiang River by pushing the window. Whether it is the leisurely river during the day, the hanging tower by the river, or the lights and night scenery at night. At night, I fell asleep with the sound of the babbling river. In the morning, I woke up in the first ray of sunshine and felt a poetic life. And it is very close to various scenic spots, which is convenient to travel.
Disadvantages: The price is relatively high, especially during the peak tourist season; some rooms near the riverside may have high humidity due to their proximity to the river; and during the peak tourist season, there are more tourists around them, which may be a little noisy.
Recommendation: Tuojiang Family Inn, famous with a restaurant downstairs; Phoenix Sulu Lotus Resort Hotel, with forest lights, Tuojiang night view, Internet celebrity stone bridge and other special landscapes, is located at No. 8 Baoziwan Road.
2. Featured homestay:
Advantages: It has strong local characteristics and a simple and elegant decoration style. Some homestays integrate Miao, Tujia and other ethnic elements, allowing tourists to deeply experience the local cultural atmosphere. The rooms are warmly furnished and the service is considerate. Some homestay owners can also provide tourists with advice and help. The price range is large, which can meet the needs of tourists with different budgets.
Disadvantages: Some homestay locations may be relatively difficult to find, and you need to contact the boss in advance to confirm the route; the facilities and equipment may not be as complete and upscale as the hotel.
Recommendation: Half-city Smoke and Rain Inn, with a simple style and suitable for taking photos; Phoenix Boutique Hotel (Phoenix Ancient City Store) is a Chinese building by the riverside, which can enjoy the invincible night view of the river. It is located at No. 145 Laoying Outpost, Tuojiang Town.
(2) Outside the ancient city
1. Hotel:
Advantages: Usually, the facilities and equipment are more complete, the rooms are spacious and bright, the sanitary conditions are good, and there is a professional management and service team, which can provide more standardized services. The price may be more affordable than the Linjiang Inn in the ancient city. Some hotels also provide free parking, which is more convenient for self-driving tourists.
Disadvantages: There is a certain distance from the core scenic spots of the ancient city, and you need to take transportation to go there, which is relatively inconvenient to travel; it lacks the simple charm and atmosphere in the ancient city.
Recommendation: Wyndham Supreme Haoting Hot Spring Hotel in Phoenix Wonderland, fluorine-containing silicate forest hot spring, has a detached private soup, located at No. 001 Fengxianland, Fengqi Road, Phoenix Ancient City.
2. Economy Inn:
Advantages: Affordable price, cost-effective, suitable for tourists with limited budgets. Although it may be relatively simple in terms of facilities and environment, the basic accommodation needs can be met. Some economic inns are not far from the ancient city and can be reached by walking or by short-distance transportation.
Disadvantages: The room area may be small, the decoration and facilities are relatively ordinary, and the service items are relatively small.
Recommendation: Lanxu residential accommodation, cheap, is located in the center of Phoenix Ancient City, very close to Tuojiang, Xueqiao and Nanhua Bridge. Some rooms also give away Wax Museum tickets and pick-up and drop-off services in the ancient city.
VI. Tour route planning
(I) Day trip
• Morning: After arriving in the ancient city of Phoenix, enter from the ancient city archway, visit Shen Congwen's former residence, learn about Mr. Shen Congwen's life and creation story; then visit Xiong Xiling's former residence and experience the architectural style of the ancient Miao courtyard.
•Noon: Taste specialties such as blood cake duck and sour soup fish in restaurants in the ancient city.
• Afternoon: stroll along the old street of the ancient city, enjoy the Qingshi slab streets and alleys and special buildings during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, pass by the Yangjia Temple to visit; then go to the Beimen City Tower and Tuojiang Jumping Rock to take photos as a souvenir; then climb the Hongqiao Fengyu Tower to overlook the panoramic view of the ancient city.
• Evening: Find a Qing bar by the Tuojiang River, listen to melodious music, enjoy the bright lights and night scenery on both sides of the Tuojiang River, and feel the romance and bustle of the ancient city night.
(II) Two-day tour
Day 1:
• Morning: Arrive in the ancient city of Phoenix from Tongren Phoenix Airport or Huaihua South Station. After checking in, go to Nanhuashan National Forest Park, stroll in the mountains and forests, breathe fresh air, and climb to the top of the mountain to overlook the whole picture of the ancient city of Phoenix.
•Noon: Eat in a restaurant near the ancient city and try western Hunan bacon, rice noodles and other delicacies.
• Afternoon: Visit the Dongmen Tower in the ancient city to experience the vicissitudes of history of the ancient city; then visit the Longevity Palace to understand the cultural stories behind it; then come to the Wanming Tower to enjoy the scenery of the Tuojiang River and visit the surrounding special shops.
• Evening: Take a black canopy boat to travel to the Tuojiang River at night, enjoy the night of the ancient city reflected by the light, and then taste local snacks in the ancient city, such as Miaojia sour radish, tung leaf cake, etc., to experience the nightlife of the ancient city.
The next day:
• Morning: Get up early and walk in the ancient city. At this time, there are few tourists and can take pictures of the beautiful scenery of the ancient city. Then go to the Phoenix Folk Culture Museum to learn more about Phoenix folk culture.
•Noon: Choose a special restaurant in the ancient city to taste social meals, hot and sour dishes.
• Afternoon: Pack your bags, check out, and end a pleasant trip to the ancient city of Phoenix.
(3) Three-day tour
Day 1:
• Morning: Arrive in the ancient city of Phoenix, settle down, and then go to Phoenix China Giant Panda Garden to see the cute giant pandas up close.
•Noon: Eat in a restaurant near the scenic spot and taste local home-cooked dishes.
The second day:
• In the morning: Visit the scenic spots such as the Yang Family Ancestral Hall, the East Gate Tower, the North Gate Tower and the Tuo River Jumping Rock, and feel the architectural charm and historical charm of the ancient city.
• Noon: Taste Phoenix specialties such as blood duck and sour soup fish.
• Afternoon: Climb the Hongqiao Fengyu Building and enjoy the panoramic view of the ancient city; then go to Wanshou Palace to visit; in the evening, go to Nanhua Mountain, wait for the sunset on the top of the mountain, and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the golden sunshine on the ancient town.
• Evening: Have dinner in the restaurant by the Tuo River, enjoy delicious food with the river view, take a walk in the ancient city after dinner, and experience the tranquility and peace of the ancient city at night.
The third day:
• In the morning: Get up early to go to Qiliang Cave, explore the magical scenery of karst caves, and take a boat tour of the underground river.
• Lunch: Have dinner at a restaurant near Qiliang Cave.
• Afternoon: Return to the ancient city of Phoenix, buy some special souvenirs in the ancient city, such as Miao silver jewelry, batik handicrafts, etc., and then pack up and prepare for the return trip.
VII. Notes
1. There are more tourists during the tourist season of Phoenix Ancient City, especially on holidays and weekends. It is recommended to book accommodation and tickets in advance to avoid delaying the trip.
2. There are many slate roads in the ancient city, and the heights are uneven. It is inconvenient to walk in high heels. It is recommended to wear comfortable flat shoes or sneakers to facilitate long-term walking and sightseeing.
3. When buying specialties or souvenirs in the ancient city, you can bargain appropriately, but pay attention to politeness and manners. For some goods that are too expensive or of questionable quality, you should buy them with caution.
4. When you go to the ancient city of Phoenix in summer, you should take sun protection and mosquito-proof measures. Carry sunscreen, mosquito spray and other items to avoid sunburn and mosquito bites. In winter, you should keep warm. The wind is strong by the riverside of the ancient city. Wear more clothes to prevent cold.
5. When taking a Tuojiang cruise ship, you should follow the boatman's instructions and wear a life jacket to ensure safety. At the same time, take care of the environment and don't throw garbage into the river.
6. There are many photography shops in the ancient city of Phoenix that provide clothing rental and photography services. If you need this, you should know the price and service content in advance to avoid disputes. Some photography stores may have additional charges, such as false eyelashes, cosmetics, etc., which should be communicated clearly in advance.
7. Respect local customs and religious beliefs. The ancient city of Phoenix is a multi-ethnic settlement, mainly inhabited by Miao, Tujia and other ethnic minorities. When communicating with local people and visiting some religious places, they follow local customs and maintain politeness and respect.
• Afternoon: Return to Phoenix Ancient City and visit Shen Congwen's former residence, Xiong Xiling's former residence and other scenic spots in the ancient city.
• Evening: Enjoy dinner in the ancient city, and then enjoy the night view of the ancient city. You can choose to watch a folk performance of the ancient city of Phoenix, such as the real-life performance of "Border City" to experience the folk customs of western Hunan.